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muscat
Muscat is a bit of a catch-all, as there are at least four principal varieties of muscat, not to mention the moscatos and moscatels that abound. Muscat blanc a petit grains is the oldest and finest variety, producing wines of great grapey intensity. Muscat of Alexandria and Muscat Hamburg are much planted especially in the south of France, and Muscat ottonel is a relative junior in the quartet, giving paler, lighter wines. Muscats are one of the very few varieties that make wines that actually taste of grapes. They are the backbone of the fortified, sweet wines of Rivesaltes, Frontignan, St-Jean-de-Minervois and Beaumes-de-Venise. It also has a great place in Asti and Moscato Spumantes of northern Italy.
Muscat is finding a bit of a renaissance in the New World where it is made in a dry style with refreshing, aromatic simplicity.
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